Newton’s Third Law
My follower(s) of the expedition tracker will have noticed the past week has been one of apparent leisure, with my dot on the map not even moving so much as 1km eastwards. Well you would be right…. to a certain degree. With the bike fast approaching 4000km, wear and tear had begun to take its toll and a desperate need for repairs by a professional - rather than my approach of just sticking more lube on the chain and praying - was in desperate need.
Arriving in Bucharest from my Danube dash was like something out of a dream. A young, vibrant and cool city to relax in, a much needed shower and plenty of watering holes. Bucharest really has it all for travellers on a budget; with my day consisting of mystery meat or cheese rolls called Luca for breakfast and ample parks to relax in. However, I would not be relaxing for long as someone (Miles) I consider a brother to me was getting married in Italy and he was silly enough to name me best man. With a flight scheduled in a day’s time I made the most of the pig in chardonnay moment that losing yourself in a foreign city offers, which can be summarised in two words: Ursus beer.
Cathedral of Saints Constantine and Helena - Bucharest
The following morning consisted of quenching my parched mouth and timing Panadol to ensure I would not be a flight risk. It felt very strange to be leaving the bike and boarding a plane when I had gone to huge lengths to make this expedition as carbon free as possible – hence the reason to cycle over trains for example. This was something that played on my mind a fair bit that day but I consolidated myself that after all the late nights of reciting of the speech in my tent, being lashed by rain, this small flight was the treat in return. I was also extremely excited to see some of my closest friends and family in only a few hours’ time (well actually a day’s time thanks to Wizz Air), and shortly after take-off I nodded off, only awoken by the thud of the plan landing.
The time spent in Italy, seeing my Mum and dearest Isobel, and being a best man for someone very close to me was amazing. I could write endlessly about my time there and all that I got up to, but suffice to say it was just what the mind, body and importantly soul needed after a few weeks hard cycling. Importantly this was an opportunity I took with both hands to ‘carbo load’ and fill up on familiar company ahead of the return to Bucharest and the bike.
A random Italian fan and myself - Puglia.
However, for every high there is a low… and I am going to try appear intelligent here by quoting Newton’s Third Law. ‘That for every action in nature there is an equal and opposite reaction’. Teary farewells to both Isobel and my mum brought home to me that the joy I have from being on the road, in the ‘wild’ and freed from societal constraints has an equally and opposing force of sadness and apprehension when saying goodbye to loved ones. The highs of summiting a mountain to Dua Lipa, or hearing wolves in the valley you’re camping in, offset by seeing how my decision to travel impacts my closest love ones; knowing it will be many weeks, most likely months, until I see them again.
In hindsight I wish I could have better factored this in when determining the route and duration of this expedition; and is something I would stress to solo travellers ahead of departure. To Mum, Isobel and Luna (I think the list of people who genuinely miss me ends there…maybe my local pub landlord) I am sorry for the pain caused, but using Newton’s Third Law means the lows of recent goodbyes will be met with equally powerful hellos down the line.
Jordan and the Romanian Parliament Palace - Bucharest
Returning to Bucharest I was met by an old pal, Jordan, who had dutifully flown out to check on how the expedition was going, see how I was faring and catch up over a couple of ‘quiet’ beers. Suspicions arouse when he said he had booked us accommodation in the old town (for his sake I wont say where), the epicentre of Bucharest pub scene and with the all-nighter that ensued I had determined that there would be nothing ‘quiet’ about the weekend we had together.
The Monday that followed had in store a very exciting opportunity to meet WWF Romania in their office to talk all things sturgeon. Bold projects that are seeking to expand floodplain connectivity (a gentle nod to the blog ‘Dam it’, an excellent read), build on anti-poaching activity and holistic work on mapping and safe guarding some of the last known spawning sites had me on the edge of my seat. Cristina, George and Maria were inspirational to speak with, with their passion for the environment and pride in the natural wonders Romania has to offer making me a tad embarrassed at how dire the UK’s environment is. They spoke of sturgeon, bears and raptors. I mentioned I had seen a dead badger on the A30 once….
I depart Bucharest tomorrow morning and head eastwards, taking the slow road to the Danube delta, the last stronghold for sturgeon in Europe. The ferry I need to catch across the Black Sea has obviously been speaking with my bike, as it is needing a service and will be out of action until mid-July. In a few days’ time I will have to make a decision: to wait for the ferry in the vain hope it will be serviced quickly (looking to the big man up top here), or to make a mad dash through Turkey, adding a lot of days to an already busy schedule. Do get in touch with your thoughts on which options seems best, but either way the I’ll be doing what I love, exploring and trying strange, local things to eat.
